Best Barrel Vise

A lot of guys nowadays are beginning to use rifles with “shift barrel”. Identical action, trigger, stock, scope, just replace the barrels with various calibers… that saves a lot of cash.

Barrels aren’t cheap. The one that looks good, with inlays for various barrel sizes. The mounting process requires torque and removing it often causes trouble due to how tight it is tight.

Let’s see what we have on the market now.

Wheeler 465185

You can use this vise if you replace the barrel with a bolt or a shotgun. You can use rosin or other powders to also help you.

Good, durable, with changeable units for different barrel designs. Wooden blocks, being a bit soft, well surround the barrels, letting you break the holdings of existing flash tents and break the muzzle.

The vise is large and heavy. I would offer it completely to anyone who wants to pull the barrel out of the treasure trove.

These vises provide high clamping pressure.

They are good enough for a basic grip, but if you need some torque to remove the barrel, the wooden sleeves are retracted.

It should be noted that wooden planks break down if the surface does not coincide with the surface of the barrels. The more blocks coincide with the contour of the barrel, the larger the surface area that will help keep the barrel from turning.


  • Barrel Vise with 3 oak shrubs
  • The pipe vise provides a high holding force.
  • The vise consists of two pre-drilled oak blocks, 1″ and 3/4″ and one solid block for individual drilling.

Mechforce MFBVBLK

Easily screwed to the workbench. The four bolts which lock the vise work pretty well. You can turn them as tight as you can, and they’ll still release easily.

Thanks to their sturdy construction and cowhide leather inserts, these Mechforce professional-grade barrel vise is able to transmit both torque and non-torque in barrels and muzzles without damaging the barrel surface.

The problem may occur when trying to remove a small profile hunting barrel such as the Tikka T-3. In this case, the skin may be crushed. But it shouldn’t be a problem, the leather can be replaced and additional leather is included.

The vise can be used for daily cleaning, adjustment of trigger hooks and buttstock/chassis installation.

A nice tool that doesn’t take up much space on a workbench.


  • Durable heavy components;
  • ¾” aircraft heavy aluminum body
  • Extra-hard crude Cowhide skins.
  • High-strength flange nuts
  • For barrel with an outer diameter from 0.67″ to 1.375″.

Grizzly Industrial T10818

Viper Vise tubes are machined from aluminum 6061, base 1″ thick, 7″ x 3″. All vise is powder-coated Dupont Powder and does not damage the barrel.

Each bolt with hardened thread has a fully gripped spring, which allows sliding on the barrel without lowering the upper half.

The upper part (red) is ¾”, 3″ x 3″ thick and is held up by 4 gripped springs – much more comfortable to use than another vise without springs.

The base part is painted with textured black powder paint, and the top part is painted with a plain red powder coating. Powder coating actually helps to grip the barrel and prevents damage if the barrel is slightly turned (not turned).

You will not need a paper or anything else around the barrel when you use this vice. The vise has two 1/2″ holes for mounting on the barrel stand, or the C-Clamps work just perfectly.

The Viper Vise tube vise can handle almost any kind of barrel on the bench, starting with the lightweight contour of a varmint and ending with 1.350-inch rail gun barrels.

The red block may jam on the bolts if you do not loosen the nuts evenly, but otherwise, it will work like a charm.

The vise is more suitable for a shooter who has a non-standard rifle and regularly removes the barrel. Do not fool around with vise or anything else, just put the receiver/ rod in the vise and tighten the nuts a bit more and the “alt” receiver will come off.

With these vice, you will not have to use rosin, as the powder coating seemed to grip the barrel quite well by itself.


  • Base 7″ x 3″ with 5 3/4″ c-t-c holes for mounting;
  • four 1/2″ bolts for clamping;
  • top plate is 3 inches in size;
  • will carry between 0.750″ and 1″ OD barrels.


  • Durable, Easy To Use, Good for many


Professional quality barrel shanks that clamp and keeps even the tightest barrel from turning. Made of strong steel to ensure durability, they serve for many years to install and remove the barrel to any gunsmith.

Brownells Barrel Vise barrel jaws must be bolted firmly to the strongest bench or fixed base. Barrel bushings in various sizes fit many popular barrels, making this versatile Barrel Vise system the first choice for professional gunsmiths.

The steel bushings provide a long life and have the necessary clamping force to penetrate the tightest barrels. Aluminum bushings also provide a secure hold without risk of damage to the barrel.

If the barrel slips in the vice, you pickle it – so if some factory rifles are relatively easy to unwind, others are not. The “universal” vise is great for soft work, but it can’t handle the torque close to 1000 feet/lb.

If you would like to be sure that you will never need another one and you don’t have the option of making your own then I would recommend Brownell’s vise.

They have bushings pre-built for many common contours and you can mold (or mechanically) your own for other contours as needed.


  • All bushes are 3″ long, -13⁄4″ diameter.
  • #4, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 are in the range of markings close to the shank diameters of most rifle barrels.
  • #5 corresponds to Mauser’s army 98 barrels.
  • The #6 sniper rifle is of conical design, matching the Remington .30-06 Sporter and other similar barrels.
  • #12 and 13 – especially processed bushing set for standard and heavy M14/M1A/M1 Garand barrels. #15 is designed for FN FAL barrel. #16 – an aluminum bushing for ¾” octagonal barrels.

Bald Eagle BE1127

This vise was originally developed by a USA Rifle Team member for a quick change of barrels up to 1-1/2 inch in diameter.

Made of T-6061 aluminum, the top clamping part of the vise of this barrel is sprung and provides one hand to hold the pistol and the other to tighten two large bolts. In some cases, even when the barrel is replaced, the scope may remain on the stock of the rifle.

To work, wrap the barrel with a reel 2 times around the 2 spots on the cone, making sure that both spots are larger than the main diameter of the barrel nut. Spring top on it good quality for Chinese production.


  • Dimensions of the upper block: 5″ x 2.5″ x 1.4″.
  • Bottom block dimensions: 7.5 in x 2.5 in x 1.1 in x 2.5 in x 1.5 in x 1.1 in.
  • The screw diameter: 3/4″
  • Installation holes use 1/2″ Allen screws for fixing
  • Locks barrel 7/8″-1-1/2″.

A few tips:

Buy a few pieces of leather in different sizes. The pieces I use mostly are about 4 “x4” pieces wrapped around the trunk or two strips of about 2 “x4” one at the top and one at the bottom.

Be cautious when inserting the barrel into the barrel and also, it may scratch the finish. The two-strip method makes it possible to put one in the vice at the bottom, gently insert the barrel and insert the other at the top, and then tighten the bolt.

Keep the leather slightly clean and check for garbage before using, if the vice is not tight enough and the barrel rotates, you will hurt the trim if there is hard garbage.

Get a rosin powder too, you can find it in most sporting goods stores. You can use this between the leather and the barrel, either rubbing some onto the barrel or the leather.

If you get a good bit on the skin, it will be good for more uses. This will keep the barrel from spinning.

If the barrel has a cylinder, try to get it out in a vise if the depth of your bench lets you do it. This allows for a large surface area as well as a straight surface with little or no contraction.

Purchase high-performance wrenches, they’re really worth it! If a surgeon’s wrench is working on Bighorn, I would highly suggest it on top of the rest. Don’t be stingy on a torque wrench either and make sure you don’t use one that’s in the upper or lower range, as they’re the most accurate in the middle.

I use a 1/2 inch 50-250 pound snap-in. You can take a used one for $100 or so. If you buy a used snap on a guy and ask him to check the calibration. Use a breaker or ratchet to break the barrel loses, do not use a torque wrench.

Also, make sure you run the torque wrench back down after use, they will usually go well below the minimum setting. This is all in case you are not familiar with torque tools.

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